As ITV’s drama *Joan* captivates audiences and bubble skirts reclaim their spot on the runway, it’s clear that the 80s are back in style. But the *Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London* exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London offers a fresh lens, exploring the vibrant creativity that flourished on the dance floors during this iconic decade.
The exhibition zeroes in on Taboo, a club that operated for just one year but served as a launchpad for notable figures like singer Boy George, designers John Galliano and Katharine Hamnett, choreographer Michael Clark, and performance artist Leigh Bowery, who co-founded the club in 1985. It chronicles their journey from humble beginnings to national prominence. One of the initial rooms features walls adorned with the Star Trek wallpaper that decorated Bowery’s own apartment.
“The exhibition highlights the evolution of these influential creatives,” explains NJ Stevenson, co-curator of the exhibition. “It pays tribute to how they transformed the fashion landscape.” On the upper level, the focus shifts to outfits designed for artists such as Culture Club, Dead or Alive, Neneh Cherry, and Bros, all of whom rocked these ensembles on the beloved music show *Top of the Pops*.
Leigh Bowery, celebrated for his audacious style, was not only a central figure at Taboo but also an icon in London’s art scene. He was immortalized by painter Lucian Freud and made a memorable appearance on *The Clothes Show* in 1986, captivating audiences with his eccentricity. Recently, there’s been a resurgence of interest in him, with his works being highlighted in an upcoming exhibition at Tate Modern in February. The current showcase features several of Bowery’s original designs, including a striking corseted dress made for his friend Sue Tilley, which have never been publicly displayed before.
“I think the fascination with Bowery comes from his relentless pursuit of the extreme,” Stevenson observes. “In club culture, appearance was everything, and no one pushed boundaries quite like Leigh. While others contributed, his competitive spirit drove him to always outdo everyone else.”
While Bowery takes center stage in the exhibition, the scope extends to encompass the entire scene. Artwork by his flatmate Trojan is on display, alongside contributions from figures like designer Pam Hogg and a collection of photographs representing clubs such as Taboo, Limelight, and Shoom.
Co-curated by Stevenson along with DJ Martin Green and nightclub personality David Cabaret, the exhibition reflects her own connection to the nightclub culture. “My generation was glued to our screens, tuning into *Top of the Pops* on Thursday nights. For many young people outside major cities, access to such experiences was very limited.”
The rise of youth-focused TV shows like *The Word* and *The Clothes Show* played a pivotal role in connecting club culture with mainstream visibility. “Caryn Franklin, the presenter of *The Clothes Show*, often visited Taboo for fashion inspiration straight from the scene. Clubs were the social media of their time—hubs for social interaction and trend discovery.”
Stevenson also points out that even in today’s social media landscape, there are striking parallels between the creative spirits of the 80s and the present. “This exhibition tells a story rooted in London’s art schools, and I see a revival happening now,” she remarks. “As emerging artists look for exhibition spaces and create communal hubs, they channel the resourcefulness of the 80s creatives, especially in these challenging financial times.”